One New York Life

This is the first year I’ve managed to finally get my thoughts on Sam’s winter pack down on, um, paper. It took quite some time this year but, due to the way Sam packages their winter samplers, it’ll be a relative quick process going forward as four of these six beers are likely to appear in every sampler for the rest of time. I have recently seen 12-packs of Coastal Wheat available for separate purchase, so it appears I was right about the sampler just being a preview for a new Brewmaster’s Reserve.

• Winter Lager: This is the grand-daddy of Winter brews. It remains my favorite winter seasonal and, like I said last week, if a brewery wants to enter a crowded winter seasonal market, they need to beat this. 40
• Coastal Wheat: Odd choice to include in a winter offering sampler. Everything about this beer, from the colors on the packaging, to the name “coastal”, to the flavor screams “Summer Beer.” I would think, if Sam wanted to preview this, they would have included it in this year’s Summer Styles or Brewmaster Collection samplers. Out of place in a winter offering, but I look forward to seeing it placed in future Brewmasters’ Collection six-packs. 34
• Cranberry Lambic: There are only two uses for this I can think of. First — a party in which the goal is to bring the worst beer and second — giving someone who hates beer a beer they might like. 19
• Old Fezziwig: I won’t go so far as to say I look forward to my seasonal 24 oz’s of Old Fezziwig, but I will say it’s become enough of a winter institution that I’d miss it if it were gone. I also feel safe in saying that if this didn’t exist, Winter Lager wouldn’t exist as we know it today. For that alone, it has my respect. 26
• Holiday Porter: I’ve been a fan of this beer since they introduced it in 2004. I look forward to it every year and I really wish they’d start putting it in 22 oz bottles for the holiday season. 35
• Boston Lager: Funny thing here… if I was having a party, it wouldn’t cross my mind to buy cases of Boston Lager bottles to throw on ice for everyone. But, if I had a kegerator and wanted to supply my guests with a upscale, safe, tasty option, I can’t think of a better choice than Boston Lager. Its low ABV would be safer for guests who might have to drive home later and the flavor is safe for a huge crowd. Boston Lager exists to be purchased on tap. With special pint glasses. 35

Average Score: 31.5 (of 50)

Best: Winter Lager. No real surprise here. Sam’s Winter Lager remains not only one of my favorite winter seasonals, but one of my favorite beers overall. If it were not to be included here, I’d be hard-pressed to buy the sampler over a 12-pack by itself.

Worst: Cranberry Lambic. I’d like to meet the group of people who love this beer and keep it in the sampler so I can punch them in the jeans.

Final Thoughts: I complain about the generic-ness of this sampler pack every year. I still purchase it every year because four of the twelve are two of my favorite winter seasonal offerings. It’s also become the twelve-pack that my get me by default for Christmas Eve/Day. I would be immensely happy if they’d replace Cranberry Lambic with a heavier winter offering like Cream Stout, but I don’t see that happening. Cranberry Lambic must have some fans somewhere. I also have a moral objection to them test-marketing a spring/summer offering in their winter sampler.

Samuel Adams Boston Lager

Brewed By: Boston Beer Company
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: 4.75%
Type: Lager

What they say: Bottle: Award winning Samuel Adams has led a return to flavorful American beer. Samuel Adams uses only classic ingredients and traditional brewing methods. Website: Samuel Adams Boston Lager® is the best example of the fundamental characteristics of a great beer, offering a full, rich flavor that is both balanced and complex. It is brewed using a decoction mash, a time consuming, traditional four vessel brewing process discarded by many contemporary brewers. This process brings forth a rich sweetness from the malt that makes it well worth the effort. Samuel Adams Boston Lager also uses only the finest of ingredients including two row barley, as well as German Noble aroma hops. The exclusive use of two row barley not only imparts a full, smooth body but also gives the beer a wide spectrum of malt flavor ranging from slightly sweet to caramel to slightly roasted. The Noble hops varieties, Hallertau Mittelfruh and Tettnang Tettnanger, add a wide range of floral, piney and citrus notes, which are present from the aroma, through the flavor, to the lingering smooth finish. We take great pride in the Noble hops used in our beers. They are hand selected by Jim Koch and our other brewers from the world’s oldest hops growing area. Among the world’s most expensive, they cost twenty times as much as other hops.

Why I picked it: The final beer in the 2009 Winter Classics. And every other sampler pack that Sam Adams releases. I’ve mentioned it before and I’ll mention it again — Sam’s sampler packs suck. There’s no good reason to include Boston Lager in every single sampler pack. There’s also nothing that makes it a “Winter Classic.” The Winter Classics are Winter Lager, Old Fezziwig, Holiday Porter, and (sadly) Cranberry Lambic. I understand the corporate purpose behind Boston Lager being included, but there’s a reason other craft brewers are rated above Sam Adams these days.

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Presentation (5): If anything, Boston Lager’s label has become iconic. The Sam label has gone through slight updates over 20 years, but the spirit is still the same. I must say that I’m a sucker for the old label with a big image of Samuel holding a beer and toasting. The current incarnation I find somewhat bland. Much like the United States has kept the $1 bill in the classic layout, I think Sam should have kept the classic labeling on the Boston Lager bottle. I’m sure there’s some kind of “corporate branding” reason for the uniform labeling but, well, I don’t like it. 3

Originality (5): Most everyone knows the Samuel Adams story by now. Jim Koch thought there was too much crap American beers. So he resurrected his great-grandfather’s recipe for Louis Koch Lager, brewed it in his kitchen and made the first full-bodied American Lager since Prohibition destroyed the market. Six weeks after its introduction it won “The Best Beer in America” at the Great American Beer Festival. Later, it went on to pass the Reinheitsgebot (The German Beer Purity Law) and be one of the only American beers sold in Germany. If you compare this beer to other American Lagers being brewed in 1984 — a market dominated by Budweiser, Genny, Rheingold, and others — it’s impossible not to give this recipe full originality points for essentially redefining the American beer market. 5

Body (10): A deep amber beer with a good head and solid lacing throughout. The Boston Lager is carbonated well for the flavor. The carbonation tries to counter a heavy dryness in the aftertaste but doesn’t quite pull it off. The color and head are quite beautiful, though, and much better quality than an average American lager. 8

Taste (10): If I’m being totally fair, when I first tried Samuel Adams Boston Lager I didn’t like it. I’m relatively certain my first sampling came about when my dad had bought some to try something different, didn’t like it, and sent it back to college with me because, well, college kids will drink anything. At that time, I was in my Molson Ice phase and, really, when I first tried it, I didn’t get what the big deal was. Was I too conditioned to macrobrewed water at the time? Probably — but my fondness for Boston Lager hasn’t grown much. However, having gone to Oktoberfest and tasted German beers under the Reinheitsgebot, I appreciate it a little more. Boston Lager has a crisp, almost-citrusy flavor. The strike against it for me has always been a really, really dry finish. While I think the overall flavor of Boston Lager beats the overall flavor of many of the German lagers I’ve sampled, the Germans tend to be much more refreshing and finish better. However, as American lagers go, Sam’s a home run. 7

Efficiency (10): Big strike here. As American Lagers go, Sam’s offering is relatively expensive with a lowish ABV, and a very dry finish doesn’t make for a very efficient beer. Relative to others of the same type, you can do better for cheaper than this. The general sixer of Boston Lager is going to run few bucks more than other Americans. There are foreign lagers that run about the same price with a higher ABV. Even Sam’s own Boston Ale goes up to 4.9%. It’s hard for me to say if you’re looking for a good lager, six of which will bring you home, to go with Boston Lager. 4

Versatility (10): Funny thing here… if I was having a party, it wouldn’t cross my mind to buy cases of Boston Lager bottles to throw on ice for everyone. But, if I had a kegerator and wanted to supply my guests with a upscale, safe, tasty option, I can’t think of a better choice than Boston Lager. Its low ABV would be safer for guests who might have to drive home later and the flavor is safe for a huge crowd. Boston Lager exists to be purchased on tap. With special pint glasses. 7

The Snob Sez: It’s better than I remember but still not one of my favorites. However, the scoring system kind of works itself out here because, even though it’s not one of my faves, it still winds up relatively high on the snob scale which, honestly, is probably correct placement.

Final Score: 34 (of 50) – Good beer

Samuel Adams Holiday Porter

Brewed By: Boston Beer Company, Samuel Adams
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: 5.8%
Type: Porter

What they say: Website: Introduced as a member of the Winter Classics Mix Pack in 2004, Samuel Adams Holiday Porter with its rich malt complexity has become a favorite among our winter seasonal brews. In total, five varieties of malted barley are used in the brewing process including a variety of German malt called Carafa. The Carafa gives our Holiday Porter its smooth, roasted malt character. Add generous portions of imported hops to the mix and one has a brew that is both robust and high in drinkability. Carafa is a registered trademark of Weyermann Malt, Bamburg, Germany. Bottle: Samuel Adams Holiday Porter is a full-flavored porter inspired by the famous drink of London’s Victorian era luggage porters. Brewed with generous portions of Caramel, Munich, and Chocolate malt, this hearter porter finishes with traditional English Fuggles and East Kent Goldings. Cheers!

Why I picked it: This is the fifth of six total reviews in the Samuel Adams Winter Classics 2009 sampler pack. Holiday Porter was added to the Winter Classics in 2004 and locked up the fourth slot rather quickly. This only really leaves one rotating slot.

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Presentation (5): Like Old Fezziwig, this beer is exclusively brewed for Winter Classics and, as such, has a unique painting for the label. I rather like the snowy background and the porter (see what they did there?) delivering a barrel of ale to a shopkeeper with children looking on. I like the old-timey feel. The red ribbon on which the beer’s name is displayed is thematically consistent with Old Fezziwig, too. 5

Originality (5): First brewed in 2004, I didn’t have to give it retroactive points. It’s a caramel and chocolate malt porter and, while the Carafa malt is a nice touch, nothing really merits full points. 3

Body (10): This is a pretty rock solid representation of a porter. The dark, ruby color, minimal head, and light lacing leads to a both heavy and refreshing body. Just a touch of carbonation carries the big flavor perfectly. My one single complaint is that it’s a little heavy for the ABV. 7

Taste (10): It tastes, well, like a porter made with chocolate and caramel malts. That’s not to belittle it. It’s tasty, but I can’t place the Carafa malts, which means I can’t really pinpoint what they do to the style. Then again, I like the generic Sam recipe. This is a very tasty, nicely carbonated version of the Sam porter recipe. 9

Efficiency (10): As mentioned above — this beer has a great taste, a high ABV, and a generally nice overall feel. It would be difficult to have more than a couple of these in any one sitting but, again, there’s no way for someone to get more than two at a time. So, its inclusion in a sampler is perfect. 7

Versatility (10): Like the Old Fezziwig, it’s only available two at a time in the Winter Classics sampler. It’s really hard to call it versatile in any way. This was another case in which I considered granting an N/A rating to the versatility but decided it wasn’t fair. The two bottles aren’t really versatile in any way. Of course, they’re not meant to be. 4

The Snob Sez: I’ve been a fan of this beer since they introduced it in 2004. I look forward to it every year and I really wish they’d start putting it in 22 oz bottles for the holiday season.

Final Score: 35 (of 50) – Really good beer

Samuel Adams Old Fezziwig

Brewed By: Samuel Adams
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: 5.6%
Type: Winter Warmer

What they say: “Old Fezziwig Ale is in the tradition of special seasoned beers for the winter Holidays, and takes its name from the festive character in Charles Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol”. This is a hearty, rich, brownish-red ale that gets its character from large amounts of specialty malts. These roasted caramel and chocolate malts give it a very full body and a smooth taste that’s then spiced with a touch of cinnamon, ginger, and orange. Happy Holidays.”

Website: Couldn’t get a blurb off their website as I was writing this because they still have a stupid Flash website that isn’t indexed by Google. So, not only could I not get information about their beer at the time I was writing this, but Sam’s website doesn’t even come up on the first page in Google. And, confidential to the site that shall not be named: Making your search function require log in is really dumb when I can go to Google, type a beer name and your site’s name, and go directly to the page. This is reason number two you shall remain the site that shall not be named in my heart.

Why I picked it: This is beer four of six in 2009’s Sam Adams Winter Classics. This beer has only been, and is pretty much always, available in the Winter Classics pack.

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Presentation (5): One of the few Sam Adams beers that eschews the traditional image of Sam Adams holding a mug in some way, shape, or form. I don’t think it’s ever changed — likely because it was designed before Sam went corporate and worried about things like branding and such. Since it’s never sold outside of the holiday pack, there’s no reason to rigorously brandify the bottle. The neck label has the beer’s name written on a festive red ribbon and the primary image is Old Fezziwig tipping his hat to the drinker while a well-dressed lady looks on like she wants a little of him. I’ve always liked this label and I like that it’s never changed, thus separating in to “something special” that only shows up in Winter Classics. 5

Originality (5): Another Sam Beer with a largely retroactive originality score. Old Fezziwig was first introduced in 1995 and, again, the craft beer revolution hadn’t quite started. That was back in my supermarket days and I don’t remember anything fancier than Guinness going out the door back then. 4

Body (10): The beer pours brown with heavy carbonation to convey the big flavors. My issue with Old Fezziwig is similar to my general complaint with most early Sam recipes. They’re extremely heavy and almost syrupy. The beer sticks to the tongue, throat, larynx, nose, eyes, hands, belly, and everything else it touches. It’s a heavy-bodied beer that blows out tastebuds without the ABV to really back it up. If a beer’s going to do this to the taste buds, it should at least have the rocks to be the only thing quaffed that night. 4

Taste (10): I’m pretty sure this beer is the granddaddy of Winter Lager. It has the same wintery flavor, but with much bolder caramel and chocolate malt flavor. There’s always been a specific flavor in this recipe that’s bothered me and it took me until now to realize it’s ginger. Once I noticed it, I couldn’t stop noticing. It kills the beer for me. Maybe it’s the combination of chocolate with ginger? I’m not sure. Whatever it is, the beer was never right for me but now I can put a name to it. 6

Efficiency (10): The body is so heavy and the flavors are so bold that it doesn’t really hold up to the 5.6% ABV. The chocolate and caramel is all over your tongue from the first taste through the next three beers. It’s a heavy, meal-like quality beer and not something drinkable for any amount of time. All these things together crushes the efficiency. 4

Versatility (10): Tough to rate because it’s a special thing only included as a treat in the Winter Classics pack. It’s not available in kegs or six-packs and they even stopped offering it as a bomber. I considered N/Aing the versatility rating but, since I don’t do it with Saranac, it’s not fair to do here. There’s just too much flavor here to be good for much. It’s offered perfectly for what it is, but what it is isn’t very versatile. 3

The Snob Sez: I won’t go so far as to say I look forward to my seasonal 24 oz’s of Old Fezziwig, but I will say it’s become enough of a winter institution that I’d miss it if it were gone. I also feel safe in saying that if this didn’t exist, Winter Lager wouldn’t exist as we know it today. For that alone, it has my respect.

Final Score: 26 (of 50) – good beer

Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic

Brewed By: Samuel Adams
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: 5.9%
Type: Wheat Ale

What they say: Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic is a fruit beer that draws its flavor not just from the cranberries it is brewed with, but also from the unique fermentation character imparted by the rare wild yeast strain. The result is a flavor rich in fruitiness and reminiscent of cranberries and bananas, cloves and nutmeg. The yeast fermentation also will create a slight sourness on the sides of the palate, a signature of the original Lambic style which, with the subtle cereal note from the wheat malt, remind its drinker that, as fruity a beer as this is, it is still a beer.

Why I picked it: Beer three of six in the 2009 Samuel Adams Winter Classics. One of the beers that’s included, it seems, almost yearly in Sam’s Holiday Pack.

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Presentation (5): The one thing I appreciate about the old beers offered in the Winter Classics is that they use the older-style labels with Mr. Adams raising a glass instead of the current rigoursly diminished version. I’m a sucker for throwbacks. You should see my Michael Jordan Washington Bullets jersey. 4

Originality (5): Tough to rate because it was first brewed in 1990. This is one of those “grandfather of craft brewing” ratings because they were experimenting with this stuff before anyone else. I’m sure Jim Koch did something along the lines of “hey, let’s take the ale recipe, dump some cranberries in to it, and see what happens.” Original idea with a grade retroactive to 1990. Twenty years ago. 5

Body (10): As people on The Site That Shall Not Be Named are quick to point out, this is not actually a lambic but a wheat ale. Whatever it is, it’s tough to rate the body because it’s really hard to notice anything other than the knock-your-socks-off cranberry flavor. It’s a muddy red with minimal head and crisp carbonation. There’s also an unpleasant, syrupy consistency that coats your tongue and just won’t go away. Very dry, syrupy, and just not that great. 3

Taste (10): Full disclosure here: I don’t like lambics. I don’t get them, I never have. I’ve tried different varieties of them and I find them just too sweet regardless if they’re peach or cranberry or whatever. This one is no different. All I can taste in this beer is cranberry and nutmeg. That’s a delicious flavor profile… for cranberry sauce. I just don’t get it in beer. Cranberry Lambic is frequently included in the holiday pack and I truly wish that this and Cherry Wheat would just go somewhere together in never come back… like Vermont. Don’t fruit the beer. 2

Efficiency (10): The 5.9% ABV is about the only efficient part of this beer. The flavor is too intense with cranberry tartness which makes consumption slow-going. The ABV could be 25.5% but if the flavor sucks then it’s no fun. 3

Versatility (10): There are only two uses for this I can think of. First — a party in which the goal is to bring the worst beer and second — giving someone who hates beer a beer they might like. 2

The Snob Sez: Clearly not my fave.

Final Score: 19 (of 50) – bad beer

Samuel Adams Coastal Wheat

Brewed By: Samuel Adams
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: Not specified, I’m going to guess low
Type: Wheat Ale

What they say: Hazy and Golden in color, this brew is a fresh twist on the popular Hefeweizen style. Eureka and Lisbon lemons, from three growing regions in California, balance out the wheat malt character, resulting in a crisp and refreshing wheat ale with subtle lemon flavor. Cheers

Website: Complaints about the website aside, I couldn’t find this beer on it. It’s a new beer in Winter Classics 2009 and information for it is pretty scattered around the web.

Why I picked it: The second of six beers in the Sam Adams Winter Classics 2009 sampler pack. It’s also the only new beer included in the pack.

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Presentation (5): Nothing Earth-shattering here. It’s the generic Samuel Adams labeling for spring/summer offerings. This one is blue in the center and ringed with yellow. The coloring and style is nearly identical to the Summer Ale labeling. It’s the mirror image with the same basic color palette. 2

Originality (5): It’s not exactly a hefeweizen and not exactly a wheat. It’s something in between. If I had to guess, they took their Hefeweizen recipe, increased the lemons, and actually filtered it. I can appreciate mixing up the recipe a bit to see what happens. 4

Body (10): “Twist on a Hefeweizen” appears to mean “Hefeweizen flavor without chunks of floating stuff.” The cloudy, golden color to the body is similar to the hefeweizen but I, for one, am a fan of the lack of yeasty chunks. Blending the Hefeweizen with the generally more masses-friendly Wheat Ale gives the beer a nice, crisp finish and and strong carbonation that, when combined with the lightness with the body, makes for a really drinkable beer. By blending out some of the more severe notes of the hefeweizen, the texture here is much more appetizing. 6

Taste (10): Very distinct lemon flavor that doesn’t quite go over in to “tastes and smells like Lemon Pledge” territory. It shares the crisp, refreshing flavor of most lemony wheat beers without falling prey to the syrupy oversweetness trap that some beers of this type fall in to. This beer simply lets the lemon be the star and balances out the citrus-crispness with the wheat malt. It works better than I expected. 9

Efficiency (10): Tough to rate here without knowing the ABV. Both their Hefeweizen and Cherry Wheat offerings are 5.4% so I’m going to assume this is right around there. For the moment, this beer is only available in the Winter Classics sampler but it smells like a preview for a new permanent offering. If it truly is 5.4%, and I’m going to work under the assumption that it is, then it’s an extremely easy beer to drink combined with (probably) a reasonable Samuel Adams price and an OK ABV. We like those three factors when they fall in that configuration. 7

Versatility (10): This is a great summer offering. It’s light, refreshing, and delicious. It’s a much more group-friendly flavor than Hefeweizen and something that the Coors Light crowd could even grow to love. 8

The Snob Sez: Odd choice to include in a winter offering sampler. Everything about this beer, from the colors on the packaging, to the name “coastal”, to the flavor screams “Summer Beer.” I would think, if Sam wanted to preview this, they would have included it in this year’s Summer Styles or Brewmaster Collection samplers. Out of place in a winter offering, but I look forward to seeing it placed in future Brewmasters’ Collection six-packs.

Final Score: 34 (of 50) – Good beer

Samuel Adams Winter Lager

Brewed By: Samuel Adams
Brewed In: Boston, MA/Cincinnati, OH
ABV: 5.8%
Type: Bock

What They Say: The first thing one notices in a Samuel Adams Winter Lager is its color: the deep brown of winter. Then comes the magical aroma which promises something special on the tongue. The warm aroma of cinnamon and ginger which blends with the roasty sweetness of the malted barley and hint of citrus from the orange peel. And after that first sip the promise is fulfilled. On the palate Samuel Adams Winter Lager is rich and full bodied, robust and warming, a wonderful way to enjoy the cold evenings that come with this season.

Website: Same as it ever was. I do still hate the double-confirmation screen, which remains silly. I also hate how sometimes their Flash app just stops loading and never continues. They should really catch whatever exception is happening there. I shouldn’t have to refresh the page manually. Loading bars are bad practice, people.

Why I Picked It: I couldn’t tell you. It was ages ago the first time I had it. In this case, it’s because I finally wanted to get it a proper score, compare it to the recently rated Blue Point Winter Ale, and, now that it’s 2010, kick off the Samuel Adams Winter Classics 2009 Series.

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Presentation (5): If you’ve seen Sam’s presentation, you’ve seen it. The Winter Lager’s label is a different blue than the Boston Lager… but not my much. The Sam Adams branding is pretty recognizable, though. 3

Originality (5): Much like many of these seasonal brews, Sam Adams was my first. According to their website, Winter Lager was first brewed in 1989… so until someone can show me a Winter Lager brewed before then, there’s no way Sam can fairly not be retroactively given full points for originality. 5

Body (10): They say brown, I say red, but I’m kind of color-blind. It’s a nice reddish-brown with a decent head and a nice lace. A perfect amount of carbonation and just a touch thicker than their regular Boston Lager. It’s just on the border of being too heavy without ever quite getting there and I think it’s because there’s a lot of big flavor stuffed in to a lighter body. The only complaint I’ve ever had of this beer is the same one I have with a lot of Sam’s early recipes: the beers all have an extreme dryness that makes it very hard to make an evening out of it without breaking it up with water or lighter brews. 8

Taste (10): I like citrus hints in my beer, I like malts, and I like spices. Winter Lager has all of the above. The taste rests on your tongue with a hint of cinnamon and citrus and finishes with malt and ginger. This beer has been around so long that a Christmas without it doesn’t feel like Christmas. 10

Efficiency (10): With a great taste, a very solid ABV, and a the reasonable price offered by the macro-microbrew, Sam’s Winter is one of the best seasonal values for your dollar. The dryness of the beer unfortunately isn’t made up for by the ABV and thus the efficiency rating suffers. 6

Versatility (10): I’ve met very few people who dislike this beer. Some may like one of Sam’s other seasonals more, but this one performs very well in crowds. It’s not a fast drinking beer, nor is it something you can sit down with and just slug all night, but it’s an excellent 3-beer maximum selection and a crowd-pleaser. From personal experience, it’s also makes quite the tasty base for a pork-chop brine. 8

The Snob Sez: This is the grand-daddy of Winter brews. It remains my favorite winter seasonal and, like I said last week, if a brewery wants to enter a crowded winter seasonal market, they need to beat this.

Final Score: 40 (of 50) – Great beer